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Basement Foundations in Custom Homes - Ellis Custom Homes
Basement Foundations for Custom Homes

A well poured and constructed foundation will be a big factor in determining how your basement performs for years. When planning a custom home, many people think about kitchens and finishes – not footers and waterproofing. Both are equally important to how happy you’ll be after construction. When it comes to what’s beneath your home, here’s what to understand before you build.

Components of a Basement Foundation

A basement foundation is a system of components that work together. Understanding what each part does helps you evaluate what builders include in their standard specifications.

Footers: Wide concrete bases that sit beneath the walls and distribute the house’s weight to the soil below. Footer size depends on soil conditions and the load they’ll carry. They must extend below the frost line – in southwestern Virginia, typically at least 24 inches deep – or freeze-thaw cycles can cause heaving.

Walls: The vertical structure that sits on the footers and supports the house above. Poured concrete is standard for full basements. Steel rebar is embedded in the walls during the pour to add strength and help resist the lateral pressure from soil outside.

Floor slab: The concrete basement floor, typically 4 inches thick, poured over a gravel base. The gravel provides drainage beneath the slab and helps control moisture migration from the ground.

Waterproofing: Coatings or membranes applied to the exterior of the foundation walls to prevent water from seeping through the concrete. This is separate from the drainage system – waterproofing is a barrier, drainage moves water away.

Drainage: Perforated pipes installed around the footers to collect groundwater and direct it away from the foundation. Interior drainage systems at the base of the walls provide a second line of defense, channeling any water that enters to a sump pump.

Poured Concrete Foundations

Modern custom homes are built with poured concrete basement walls. The concrete creates a solid, continuous structure that’s stronger and more stable than the cement block foundations common in older homes.

Standard basement walls are 8 feet tall, which provides proper ceiling height for finished spaces. Some homeowners upgrade to 9-foot walls – once you account for HVAC ducts and dropped ceilings, the extra height helps maintain comfortable headroom in finished spaces. This is an upgrade that can’t be done after the fact.

In our homes, we pour these walls with the expectation that homeowners may want to finish the space. That means full height throughout, proper structural support, and attention to details that make finishing easier down the road.

Why Steel Rebar in Concrete Walls?
Concrete handles compression well but is weak in tension. Steel rebar (short for reinforcing bar) is embedded in the walls during the pour to add tensile strength. This reinforcement helps the walls handle both the weight of the house from above and the lateral pressure from soil pushing against the outside – forces that would otherwise cause cracking over time.

Managing Water Around Foundations

Keeping basements dry requires managing water before it becomes a problem. It starts with proper grading – soil sloping away from the house – to keep surface water from reaching the foundation. Still, some water will inevitably reach the walls, which is why waterproofing systems are standard in quality new construction. These typically include exterior waterproofing on the foundation walls, perimeter drainage around the footers, and interior drainage at the base of the walls.

We use the Tuff-n-Dri system in our homes – spray coating and Warm-n-Dri board on the exterior, footer drains, and Drain-Star interior drainage. This complete approach includes a 30-year manufacturer warranty on the waterproofing components. (Click here to learn more about Tuff-n-Dri.)

Different builders take different approaches to water management. Some use exterior waterproofing alone, others just add footer drains. More complete systems typically come with longer manufacturer warranties – and more importantly, they keep basements drier.

Why Concrete Alone Isn’t Enough
Concrete is porous – water can slowly seeps through it over time. Without waterproofing, moisture migrates through basement walls and floors, leading to dampness, musty smells, and conditions where mold can develop. Waterproofing systems create a barrier that concrete alone doesn’t provide.

Questions to Ask Builders

When interviewing builders, ask about their foundation approach. These questions help you understand their construction standards:

What foundation material do you use?
Poured concrete is standard for full basements. Block may be appropriate for specific applications like bi-levels.
What’s your waterproofing approach?
Look for complete systems with exterior waterproofing, footer drains, and interior drainage. Ask about manufacturer warranties.
What details are included in your standard specifications?
Ask specifically about gravel under slabs, expansion joints, steel in garage floors, and footers under outdoor structures.
Can I see your written specifications?
Quality builders provide detailed specs showing what they include on every home.

What to Expect After Construction

Now that you understand what goes into a foundation and how to evaluate your builder, what should you expect after construction?

A well-built foundation should perform without major issues. That said, all new homes go through a settling period as concrete cures, lumber dries, and the structure adjusts to its environment. Here’s what’s normal during that period – and what would actually indicate a problem:

Small cracks are normal
Hairline cracks under 1/8 inch in basement floors or walls as concrete cures, and small drywall cracks above doors and windows as lumber dries, are typical in the first year. Cracks wider than 1/8 inch, cracks that grow over time, or stair-step cracks in block walls warrant a call to your builder.
Your basement should stay dry
A properly waterproofed basement stays dry year-round. Any water seepage, persistent dampness, musty smells, or visible mold indicates something in the waterproofing system isn’t working – call your builder.
Doors may stick slightly
Minor sticking as the house settles during the first year is normal. Doors or windows that suddenly won’t close properly, or gaps appearing between frames and walls, warrant a call to your builder.
Some squeaking is expected
Floors may squeak as lumber dries, especially during the first heating season. Noticeable slopes, bouncing or springy areas, or floors pulling away from walls are not normal – call your builder.

Most settling happens in the first year. After that, a well-built foundation should stabilize and show no new movement. If new problems develop years later, have a foundation professional evaluate the situation.

Choose a Builder You Can Trust

Foundation work happens in the first few weeks of construction. Most of it disappears behind dirt and finishes – you won’t see it later, but you’ll live with the results. That’s why your builder’s approach and specifications matter more than anything you could inspect yourself.

Do your homework upfront. Ask the questions in this article. Look at written specifications. Understand what’s standard and what’s an upgrade. A builder who takes foundation work seriously will be happy to explain their approach.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you think you might want a bathroom, wet bar, or utility sink in your basement someday, rough it in before the slab is poured. The plumbing lines run beneath the concrete floor – adding them later means jackhammering through the slab, which is expensive and disruptive.

This is one of the few decisions during foundation work that’s difficult to change later. Even if you’re not finishing the basement right away, roughing in plumbing now gives you options.

Your main job is keeping water away from the foundation. Keep gutters clean and downspouts directed away from the house. Maintain grading so soil slopes away from the foundation. If you have a sump pump, test it periodically.

Avoid planting trees or large shrubs close to the foundation – roots can disrupt drainage systems and put pressure on walls over time.

It depends on how you plan to use the space. Once you account for HVAC ducts, dropped ceilings, and flooring, an 8-foot wall can leave you with under 7 feet of finished headroom in some areas. A 9-foot wall gives you room to work with and still end up with comfortable ceiling height.

This is an upgrade you can’t add later, so consider it carefully during the planning stage.

With proper construction – adequate waterproofing, drainage systems, and structural support – you can finish whenever you’re ready. Some homeowners finish immediately, others wait years.

Ask your builder about their warranty coverage for basements and whether finishing affects that coverage.

Builder warranties typically cover workmanship for one year. Manufacturer warranties cover specific products for longer periods – waterproofing systems often carry 10-30 year warranties.

Longer manufacturer warranties usually require complete system installation according to their specifications. Ask your builder what warranties come with their standard foundation package.

Builder workmanship warranties are typically one year, but manufacturer warranties on products like waterproofing systems can extend much longer. Check what warranties transferred to you at closing.

If you notice new cracks, water intrusion, or other issues after the builder warranty expires, consult a foundation professional for an evaluation. Many issues can be addressed – the key is not ignoring them.

For more information about how we build custom homes in Virginia, view our detailed specifications.

View Our Specifications
This article describes general foundation construction practices as of December 2025. Construction methods and materials continue to evolve. For current specifications on Ellis Homes projects, see our specifications page.

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